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OCR: TRAVEL thousands of species hardy adventurers of tropical bird, croco- and well-equipped diles and breathtak- safaris. ingly beautiful water- Tours to the Pe- falls. ninsula still follow The main road, the the old packhorse old telegraph track, trails out of town winds through small through dry wood- communities, isolated lands, dense for- mining towns and Out- est, past the bi- back settlements and Tropical Cairns is a cosmopolitan zarre Black Moun- crosses 27 untamed city that will delight youboth tains of aboriginal rivers. This is the camp- visuall y and historically legend, over steep ing adventure holiday rocky escarpments of a lifetime. and wide rivers to the old gold settlements of Laura Cooktown was dis- and Coen. covered by Captain Cairns, a bustling tropical city, is the gateway to James Cook in 1770 as the rainforests and Great Barrier Reef of Queens- a haven for his crew to land. Founded on the gold rush in the latter part of carry out vital repairs the 1800s, the settlement that served pioneers and to the Endeavour, which had been holed on a col- thousands of diggers has long outlived shifts in for- umn of coral. A century later, it became a wild town tune to become one of the world's most attractive of unprecedented wealth when 30,000 gold-seekers holiday destinations. poured ashore. Since then, it has become a stag- The architecture is a blend of its colonial origins ing port for the frontier county and a takeoff point for and modern tropical Australian design, matching a